It may be cold outside, but January brings a seismic shift in fashion, with
the old winter collections making way for new spring deliveries. The
department stores are already displaying the season’s key styles, and below
is a summary of the trends that have made it from the catwalk to the stores.
Khaki: Since it first hit the runway over 40 years ago, khaki has become a
fashion classic, returning this season with a bang. Appearing in varying
styles for a number of fashion houses, we saw suede khaki pieces at
Chanel’s feminist protest, Marc Jacobs’s sharp military silhouettes and
Ralph Lauren’s safari-style glamour.
Kimono: With long silhouettes tied at the waist, the Kimono proved to be an
inspiration for a number of fashion houses this season. From Marni’s cream
outfit accentuated with an oversized black belt, to the delicate floral
design inspired by a Hokusai drawing at Gucci and Céline’s sleek black
silhouette with exposed seams and a deep blue belt mirroring the look of
Nautical: Fashion Week took to the coast for next season, as a sea breeze
swept over the runways in Milan, New York and Paris. From an oversized coat
at Lanvin, a yachting-inspired dress at Chloé and Marc Jacob’s nod to the
sailor’s uniform, designers set sail in search of new horizons.
Saturday Night Fever: Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent set the tone for this
trend with his rock glam inspired collections. For spring there were shiny
leopard dresses by Slimane to an ultra-short, lurex effect one-shouldered
dress seen at Isabel Marant and head-to-toe shine at Tom Ford.
Patchwork: As seen at Maison Martin Marginal, Proenza Schouler and Marni, a
mix and match of fabrications, patchwork, colour, eclectic looks and
conceptual silhouettes took centre stage.
Vintage: Designers show their flair for the eclectic, bringing together
vintage fabrics, using unexpected combinations of prints and textures. The
proof is the incredible fabrics at Dries Van Noten, the graphic foliage and
florals at Maison Martin Margiela, and Prada’s eastern evocations.
Anydrogy: Many years have passed since women first conquered the male
wardrobe, so this season the designers were keen to return to the codes of
masculine suits, bringing a touch of sexy, adrogynous style to contrast the
more feminine looks that graced the runway. The trend reveals itself in the
asymmetric cuts seen at Anthony Vaccarello, the strong streetwear edge at
Sonia Rykiel and the against-the-grain, tennis striped fabric at Maison
Photo 1: Saint Laurent – Isabel Marant – Tom Ford
Photo 2: Dries van Noten – Maison Martin Margiela – Prada